Rahul Mhatre: Kerala - God’s Own country!

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God’s Own country! That’s how Kerala state promotes tourism for their state. We (I and my wife) decide to visit Kerala and I started planning for our Kerala trip from August 2013. When I think “Kerala”, I think about temples, tea plantations, serene beaches and of course the Back Waters!

I was not interested in a package tour because tour operators take to regular tourist spots only and skip some of them which are worth visiting. So after reading loads of posts on online forums, I started preparing an itinerary. I was also keen to include Kanyakumari in our trip. After going through many tourists’ spots, I had to decide which one to visit and which to skip. I started shortlisting and finalizing spots. After few days my itinerary of 8 days plus travelling was finalized. This is how it looked: Start from Mumbai – Cochin – Munnar – Alleppy – Trivandrum – Kanyakumari – Return to Mumbai. Dates were finalized - Saturday, October 19, 2013 to Wednesday, October 30, 2013. The next task was to look for staying options and travelling from one city to another. For travelling, I booked a car for entire 8 days to save waiting time otherwise we had to spent time in waiting for public transport. But for staying options, I spent some time to handpick homestays in all the five locations. I considered few points before selecting them such as – location of homestay should be close to market so that we can visit them in evenings, not very far away from the places we want to visit and of course should be in our budget. We preferred homestay compared to hotels because we just need a place to sleep over and get ready next day. We were not interested in swimming pools or other luxuries in hotels since we spend most of the time visiting places instead of enjoying stays in hotels. I also booked train tickets for Mumbai to Cochin and Kanyakumari to Mumbai. I paid advances to car operator and homestay owners. And now we were all set for our trip!

Saturday, October 19, 2013

We started our journey in Ernakulum Duronto at 8.50 pm from Mumbai. The train departed on time.

Sunday, October 20, 2013

We reached Ernakulum at 7.00 pm. Took a cab from station and reached our homestay, Kapithan Inn, in Cochin. Cab cost: Rs. 500. It was around 8.00 pm so had our dinner and took rest after 22 hours of train journey.

Day 1: Monday, October 21, 2013

I called our drive at 9.00 am and he confirmed that he will be reaching in next 15 minutes. We decided to visit Santacruz Basilica till then. It was just 2 minutes away from our homestay. Clicked few photographs and came back. Our driver, Munir was waiting with the car. I showed him hard copy of our itinerary in which I have listed all the spots that we want to visit. He took us to St. Francis Church which was again just 2 minutes of drive. I didn’t found any interesting things there. Next was Chinese fishing Nets. I told Munir that we want to see fishing nets in evening so that I can photograph it during sunset. But Munir explained, we cannot see how Chinese fishing nets are operated in evening so we agreed and went there. It was interesting to see how those worked. By paying small fees, you yourself can try to operate it. Next stop was Matancherry Palace or Dutch Palace. The way this building looks from outside, we very surprised by seeing such nice murals inside. There are many murals painted on the walls. We then walked to Jew or Pardesi synagogue which is very close to Matancherry Palace. Again came to Matancherry palace and noticed sign boards across the road saying sunset boat trips are arranged from the jetty. We went ahead and enquired about it and learned that there are 2-3 types of rides for different duration and with different rates. We decided not to go for boat trip and stick to our itinerary.

It was around 12 noon and we decide to take lunch. We went in a random hotel near to Matancherry palace and ordered food. The food was not good. I should say it was bad! Not so good start with food in Kerala. The next stop for the day was Folklore museum. The museum is 8.5 km away from Matancherry palace. We reached Folklore museum at 1.00 pm. It is privately build and owned, Keralan style two storey building. Entry fee is Rs. 100 per person. There are more than 4000 artifacts in the museum. We were supposed to visit Hill Palace Museum but missed it as it is closed on Mondays. Thankfully we didn’t go all the way to Hill Palace Museum to know it is closed. So we came back to our homestay, relaxed for an hour and decided to visit Chinese fishing Nets to see sunset and click photographs. It was around 5.00 pm so we told Munir that we will walk. So he went to his place and said will be here tomorrow at 9.00 am. We walked through the market and reached fishing nets in around 15-20 minutes. There was still time for the sunset so we were roaming in the fish market where the catches from the nets are sold. We noticed an auction was held to sell fishes. We were watching an auction and a local person was translating and telling us at what price the fish was sold. He also told that most of the fish will either go to 3-4-5 star hotels or will be sent to different part of the country. We were also told and we can buy the fish from the shop and restaurant nearby will cook them for us for small cost. We bought 500 gm of lobsters for Rs. 250 and took it to a restaurant to cook. Total cost for dinner Rs. 250 (lobsters) + 400 (cooking and rotis and rice). The money we spent was worth. The food was delicious. We were happy to opt for this and reached back to our homestay at 8.00 pm.

Day 1 - Santacruz Basilica Church, Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 1 - Temple near Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace), Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 1 - Mattancherry Palace (Dutch Palace), Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 1 - Folklore museum, Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 1 - Fish Market, Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 1 - Chinese Fishing Nets, Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 1 - Dinner, Fort Cochin, Kerala

Day 2: Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Today we have to leave Cochin and move towards Munnar. We started our journey towards Munnar at 9.00 am. There were two waterfalls on the way to Munnar where we had to stop. After driving for around one and half hour, it was greenery we can see all the way around. We were passing through rubber plantations and saw pineapple fields. We reached Cheeyappara waterfall at 12 noon. Clicked some pictures and went to Valara waterfall which is just 15 minutes ahead. Again clicked some pictures and moved ahead. Around an hour’s more journey and we started seeing tea plantation. It was so foggy that cars had to turn on headlights at 1.30 pm. We reached our homestay in Munnar (Theresian cottage) at 2.00 pm. The cottage was bit small but was enough for two of us.

I told Munir to come back after an hour so we can visit next spot. We reached Eravikulam (Rajamalai) National Park at 3.30 pm. Bought the ticket (Rs. 80 per person for adults) and were waiting for the bus (only vehicles) which operates inside national park. The bus was driven through the hilly roads of national park and views were truly amazing. The national park is known to spot Nilgiri tahr but we were not amongst the lucky one who saw them. Clicked few more pictures and came back towards our cottage. But I told Munir to drop us at market and we will roam around and then go back to cottage. We had dinner in a restaurant and again it was not good. The food was cooked in coconut oil and we were not used to it. Reached cottage at 8.00 pm.

Day 2 - Cheeyappara Fall, On the way to Munnar, Kerala

Day 2 - Valara Fall, On the way to Munnar, Kerala

Day 2 - Eravikulam (Rajamalai) National Park, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3: Wednesday, October 23, 2013

Today we had to do local sightseeing of Munnar. We went for breakfast in the market and started sightseeing at 9.00 am. First stop was flower garden. Entry ticket was Rs. 10 per person plus 25 for camera. Clicked some photographs and moved to next stop. We reached Photo Point at 10.00 am. Nothing special about these point and don’t know the reason for the name. However, we did click some photos at Photo Point. We then moved to Carmelagiri Elephant Park and reached the park at 10.30 am. We bought ticket for two which cost Rs. 700 plus Rs. 250 for clicking photographs and CD album. It was fun elephant ride but was very small considering Rs. 350 per person. We were told that we can collect our CD album on our way back. At 11.00 am, we reached Mattupetty Dam/lake. The view of the lake was good. Next spot was Echo Point which was 10 minutes’ drive ahead. It was extension of Mattupetty lake. There were many shops selling handicraft items, snacks, etc. There was also boating options available. We clicked few photographs and went to Kundala Dam/Lake. It’s a small lake few KM ahead of Echo point. The next stop was Top Station. But Munir halted car few KM prior and told and same view is seen from Top Station but there you have to walk. We agreed and visited that unnamed point. The view was incredible nevertheless. There was another elderly couple who clicked our photographs together and I clicked for them. It was around 1.00 pm but didn’t felt the heat.

We have seen all the spots on this route and headed back. On our way back, we noticed many cars were stopped by road and people were watching something. Munir saw elephants on the right side of the road. I guess they were left there to roam but not sure about it. We saw four elephants and tried to click some photographs. Again started our way back and collected CD from Carmelagiri Elephant Park. I told Munir to drop us near market for lunch. We had our lunch and visited Tea Museum. Entry ticket for two cost us Rs. 170. There was a video which showed the history of Munnar and how tea plantation started in this place. Then visit to the actual tea production area. It helped me to answer my long time query of how tea leaves are transformed into tea powder which we use in tea making. Also there was an instructor who told how tea can help us to live healthy life if we drink it correctly. Munir suggested us that we can see Kalaripayattu and Kathakali shows in Munnar. We opted only for Kalaripayattu show. We bought the tickets for Rs. 200 per person. Show started at 6.00 pm as per schedule. The show was good to hold our seats for 45 minutes. We then went to the market again, roamed around in the market, had our dinner and came back to our cottage at 8.00 pm.

Day 3 - Flower Garden, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Photo Point, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Carmelagiri Elephant Park, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Mattupetty Dam, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Kundala Lake, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Tea Gardens, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Top Station, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Elephants in Field, Munnar, Kerala

Day 3 - Kalaripayattu, Munnar, Kerala

Day 4: Thursday, October 24, 2013

It was time to say goodbye to amazing beauty of Munnar. We started our journey towards next destination at 10.00 am. Our next destination was Alleppey or Alappuzha – famous for its back waters. It was long journey of around 4 hours. First we had to visit Marari beach. It was around 14 km before Alleppy town. We reached Marari Beach at 2.00 pm and were hungry. There were not many people on beach at this time of the day. We were looking for some food outlet and notice a board saying “Homely Meals” in front of a small home. I enquired there and food was available. Both of us ate in a single plate which cost Rs. 100. The reason for not ordering two plates was we were not sure if the food was cooked in coconut oil. I must mention here that the food was delicious! We spent some time and clicked many photographs. The beach was clean and beautiful. We reach our home stay Astamudi homestay at 4.00 pm. Homestay owner suggested us to visit Alleppey beach in the evening. I told Munir to come back at 5.00 pm.

We reached Alleppey Beach at 5.30 pm. It was a nice beach with lots of tourists enjoying on the beach. The sunset was beautiful. As usual, we clicked few photos and went back to Alleppey town. We followed our routine and told Munir to drop us in market. We had to enquire about houseboat ride for next day. I saw small KTDC information Centre and asked about different houseboat rides. Basically, there are two types of rides – overnight which include lunch; dinner and breakfast for around Rs. 6000 and sightseeing only for 3 hours costing Rs. 3000. We knew that homestay owner too arrange for houseboats. They were charging us Rs. 5250 for the ride. We agreed on the price and but told and we will confirm once we see the houseboat. We had our lunch and retired for the day.

Day 4 - Marari Beach, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 4 - Alleppey Beach, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 5: Friday, October 25, 2013

It was the day to experience “Kerala Back Waters”. I was super excited!!! But then it started to rain at 10.30 am and I was like “No, Please! No rain today!” Thankfully it stopped after a short drizzle. We went to the place from where all the houseboats start their journey, checked our houseboat and loaded our baggage. There is a chef and a driver for each houseboat. There were 100s and 100s of houseboats waiting for tourists. There were houseboats with single bedroom for a couple to 5-6 bedrooms for bigger groups. Simple one, Luxurious. With upper deck, without upper deck. You get all here.

Houseboat started sailing at around 12.30 pm. Our houseboat, locally called kettuvallam, was slowly moving through small canals which have end number of coconut trees on both sides. We stopped for lunch break at 2.00 pm. Lunch was served and it was most delicious food we had on our trip. Soon we were surrounded by beautiful landscape or waterscape I should say. Now I was clicking pictures in all the directions. Again a small drizzle of 5 minutes but I got one good snap out of it. We were seeing a different life style altogether. Here for all the day to day activities, boats are used. There are public boat transport systems to carry people from one place to other. Children were returning back from school in boats. Fishes and vegetables vendors were carrying their goods to sell on boats. If you want to go to a temple or church then you got to use boats. In short, you need boat if need to go from A to B. We stop again in a market at 4.30 pm. They were selling fishes, cold drinks, ice-creams. Our chef was insisting on buying fishes for dinner but those were costly so we didn’t bought them. We bought one coconut with water and two ice-creams. We now touched huge Vembanadu lake and were seeing 100s of houseboats sailing around.

The sun was going down and it was time to click some sunset photographs in backwaters. Our boat was anchored at around 6.00 pm. We got down and strolled in the village. We noticed that no other tourist got down from their house boats. It was a lazy evening. We sat on upper deck and chatted till 8.00 pm. It was dinner time. Again the dinner was very tasty. It was end of a beautiful day of our life.

Day 5 - Homestay, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 5 - Houseboat in Alleppey Backwaters, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 5 - Lunch @ Houseboat in Alleppey Backwaters, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 5 - Houseboat in Alleppey Backwaters, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 6: Saturday, October 26, 2013

After an outstanding day, it was time for morning breakfast. We were treated with idle-chutney. Our return journey started at 8.00 am and reached the jetty at 9.00 am. I thanked our chef for the tasty meals he cooked for us and driver for taking through beautiful backwaters.

I had called Munir last evening and told him to reach near jetty at 9.00 am and he was ready there to take us to our next spot - Ambalapuzzha Sree Krishna Temple. The temple is around 15 km ahead from Alleppey. It was typical Keralan styled temple. Men have to take off shirts of any kind before entering the sanctum.

We then moved to our next destination – Trivandrum or Thiruvananthapuram. Trivandrum is approximately 140 kms away. We reached Napier Museum in Trivandrum city at 2.30 pm. Entry ticket is Rs. 10 per person. There were many interesting items in the museum but one thing which attracted our attention was a huge puja chariot. We had a quick dinner near to Napier Museum and went to Kanakakunnu Palace which is just adjacent to Napier. No one is allowed inside except during cultural programmes. We reached Lal Tourist home at 4.00 pm. As always I told Munir to come back after an hour.

It was time to visit Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple. We reached temple at 5.30 pm. There is a strict dress code that needs to be followed while entering the temple. Men need to wear mundu or dhoti and should not wear shirts of any kind. Women need to wear sari, skirt and blouse. Pants or churidhar or Salvar-Kameez are not allowed. The temple is an example of excellent ancient Indian architecture. It’s a temple complex with many small shrines inside. There is a huge deity of Padmanabha reclining on a serpent. We spent around an hour inside temple looking at the marvelous architectural masterpiece.

We then decide to do some shopping in Trivandrum market so told Munir get some rest and we will walk towards our hotel. After visiting few shops we bought few Kerala sarees, keralan halwa and coconut chips. After strolling through the market and completing dinner, we reached our hotel around 9.00 pm. End of another awesome day in Kerala.

Day 6 - Houseboat in Alleppey Backwaters, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 6 - Ambalapuzha Sree Krishna Temple, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 6 - Shop near Ambalapuzha Sree Krishna Temple, Alleppey, Kerala

Day 6 - Napier Museum, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 6 - Kanakakunnu Palace, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 6 - Sree Padmanabhaswamy, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7: Sunday, October 27, 2013

At 9.30, we reached Kuthiramalika Palace Museum which is just beside Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple. The palace was build and used by king Rama Verma. Entry ticket to the museum is Rs. 15 per person. Guided tours are conducted in the palace. After completing tour, we clicked some photographs of palace museum from outside. We again saw the beauty of Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple and clicked more pictures in day light.

We then moved to Shankumugham Beach and reached the beach at 11.00 am. We saw few boats came back from fishing and were unloading their catches. Spent 20-30 minutes and then moved towards Kovalam Beach. We reached Kovalam at 12.00 noon. The beach is indeed beautiful. We saw many foreign tourists enjoy surfing and swimming here. There are many shops, restaurants and hotels near the beach. We tried fish sizzlers in one of the restaurant and started our journey to our next stop. Our next stop was in Tamil Nadu state so we were now going out of Kerala. The next stop was Padmanabhapuram Palace Museum. We reached the palace museum at 2.30 pm and bought tickets for Rs. 120 for two persons. The palace complex is huge and can take more than an hour to complete the tour. We learned the Padmanabhapuram was former capital of the region before it was moved to Thiruvananthapuram. Again then palace complex is best example of traditional Kerala style architecture. After palace museum we went to see Suchindram Thanumalayan Temple. We reached the temple at 5.00 pm. The temple famous for its architecture and now we know why. After spending around 30 minutes we moved to our last destination of this tour Kanyakumari.
We reached our hotel, Gopinivas Grand, in Kanyakumari at 6.00 pm. Munir told us that as per our itinerary, there are no spots remaining where we require car to travel. All the remaining spots are very nearby and can be complete by walking. We agreed and said good bye to him for his company and assistances. After settling in a hotel and little rest we were out to explorer market area. We noticed that many Bengalis visit here so there are shops which sell fried fishes. We also tried fried fish. After eating Kothu paratha in dinner (which was again yummy), we went back to our hotel.

Day 7 - Kuthiramalika Palace Museum, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7 - Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7 - Kuthiramalika Palace Museum, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7 - Shankumugham Beach, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7 - Kovalam Beach, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7 - Fish Sizzlers at Kovalam Beach, Trivandrum, Kerala

Day 7 - Padmanabhapuram Palace, Kanyakumari

Day 7 - Suchindram Thanumalayan Temple, Kanyakumari

Day 8 Monday, October 28, 2013

In Kanyakumari, we have to witness Sunrise and Sunset. So we woke up early at 6.00 am and went out to see sunrise. There were many people who were also interested in see sunrise. Now we didn’t have to ask direction and just followed those people. We reached just before sunrise and saw beautiful twilight. Slowly an orange ball was rising to break the dawn. We were watching astonishing Sunrise at kanyakumari. This was most marvelous sunlight I have ever seen (but then I have not seen many of them :) ). We then visited Vivekananda Rock Memorial at 10.30 am. We bought two ferry tickets for Rs. 68 and then Rs. 40 as entry ticket to memorial. There is also small temple of Kanyakumari on same rock island. We can see Thiruvalluvar Statue on adjacent rock island. After spending an hour or so we came back to mainland. We had lunch at 1.00 pm and went back to hotel for rest. Went to Gandhi Mandapam but nothing to mention here and spent some time in a small garden beside it. It was around 6.00 pm and it was time to see Sunset. We watched wonderful sunset along with many others who gathered here so see it. Later had some snacks, spent some time in shopping, had our dinner. It was time to arrange a vehicle which will drop us to Nagercoil town railway station which is around 22 km away. Booked an auto rickshaw for Rs. 500. End of day and the trip!

Day 8 - Twilight (Sunrise), Kanyakumari